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The Coptic contingency of the nation is orthodox, and similarly conservative. In Cairo, where many western women tour and live, you could easily get away with western dress, although you’ll still be likely to garner some unwanted attention if you go about uncovered.

One is supervised, usually by men, in an organized tour. I also recommend this as well, with a caveat: Egypt is not, in my opinion, a great place to begin your solo travels.

Both sunburn and sunstroke are real risks, and tourists should not only cover up, but also take regular breaks from the heat.

Visitors to the region are warned to buy entocid tablets, which only cost two euros for a pack of eight.

The sweat dripped slowly the length of my spine as I craned my neck toward the sky to peer against the sun toward the top of the Great Pyramid.

Vertebra by vertebra, I felt the warm, salty drip traverse the length of my back and soak into the waist of my sand colored silk pants. The entire time I was working my way the length of the country my mood swung from one extreme to the other; awestruck to be standing between stones that Cleopatra’s father stood on their ends and the great Ramses carved from the desert, to cursing under my breath and privately hash tagging photos to privileged friends, #effingegypt.

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